After thinking about building a relay-computer for a while, I started
focusing on the flip-flop design and came up with idea for a master-slave
flip-flop with a capacitor-based latch for the master side and a hold
resistor based latch for the slave side. Of course I wanted to try it, so I
designed a 4-bit counter:
And tried it on a bread-board:
The above video is a re-creation: at first I thought it would be better
to use 24V relays, since I thought they would have better fan-out.
Eventualy I realized that the cost of a 24V power supply would have been a
big problem, so I switched to 12V. None the less, I bought a bunch of 24V
relays which I used for these experiments.
A relay PDP-8 ?
I thought it would be neat to make a relay-based clone of a real
computer, and of course I needed a really small one so naturally I focused
on a PDP-8 minicomputer
from DEC. So I designed one. I wrote a Verilog version of the PDP-8 to
pre-verify the design and help with optimization.
But with more thought, I've decided the PDP-8 is little silly. It would
be so slow that running any real software wouldn't be very interesting.
Also, I ended up being more interested in making something I could mass
produce and possibly sell. 227 relays is just too big and too expensive for
such a toy. Still, I've given the design above and perhaps someone would
like to build one.
So I came up with a list of constraints for a more reasonable relay-based
It should be a single PCB.
The PCB should be small enough to fit in a USPS "Medium Flat Rate Box"
otherwise I would have difficulty with shipping.
It had to be a real programmable computer, not just an adder or
It should have a front panel interface so that it could be used without
any external equipment.
Anyway, I toyed around with modifications to the PDP-8 design. Perhaps I
could keep all the same concepts but make an 8-bit version?
I finally hit upon a number of changes which reduced the design:
Switch to two address instead of single address + accumulator. This
immediately saves 18 relays (in the 12-bit PDP-8) by eliminating the
This implies that instructions would be wider, in fact a different
width than the data path. This ends up also saving relays because the
instruction register ends up being implemented in semiconductors, so even if
instructions are wider, it will not cost relays.
Change the datapath from 12 bits to 8 bits or even 6 bits. The PDP-8 is
12 bits for two reasons: so that instructions would fit, and so that the
address size would be reasonable. Now we don't need to fit instructions in
a data word, but address size is still important.
8-bit datapath is nice since you can then move ASCII characters around,
so I went with that.
Now we're left with addressing: for a relay computer you don't really
need much, but is 256 enough? If it isn't I would have to have some kind of
paging scheme and support some form of indirection. Well 256 would have to
be enough, and in fact it's fine.
I was originally planning on having LEDs and switches for the front
panel. However, it turns out that switches are quite expensive- in fact
more than the 7-segment LED-display and keypad that I now have. Also I knew
from experience that although switches have a nice nostalgia value, they are
in fact very tedious to use.
I use older design tools that I bought when I was working as a consultant
in the mid 1990s: DOS OrCAD SDT
386+ for schematic capture and PADS PowerPCB version
3.5.1 for PCB layout. I have access to newer tools at work (Allegro,
ConceptHDL), but they are certainly not mine to use for home projects. I
should probably learn an open source tool like gEDA, but I already know the tools I
I've used DOS OrCAD for many designs including PCB designs and Xilinx
FPGA designs using Xilinx XACT (now I use Verilog for FPGAs, and would have
used it even then if it was available) and has one of the best user
interfaces of any software tool. With some recent video drivers DOS OrCAD
now works better in Windows-XP than it ever did in MS-DOS. Tragically,
64-bit versions of Windows do not support VM86 mode, so OrCAD doesn't run
well (you could use DoSBOX, but it's not as good). Long mode does not
directly support Virtual 8086 mode,
but with work Microsoft could have pulled it off (switch to 32-bit Protected
mode, then switch to VM86 mode): see v86-64 for Linux.
I wrote a tool to convert OrCAD to Verilog so that I could run a
"gate-level" simulation of the design (look for the Verilog netlister in the
files section of the OldDosOrCAD Yahoo group) using the open source Icarus Verilog and GTKWave. This influenced the
design style I used. Basically it's a very hierarchical design, where the
relays only appear in the leaf pages, and the leaf pages are simple and
small. Each leaf page is replaced with a Verilog model whose source is
written as a comment embedded on the schematic page itself. This simulation
was more important when I was going to make a relay clone of the PDP-8,
since I definitely wanted to simulate the complex control logic. The
Trainer design is simpler, so I never did the gate level simulation.
I also have OrCAD Capture 7.2 (I got it when I was still paying
maintenance) which can import SDT 386+. I used this to generate the .pdf
version of the schematics. I tediously annotated the schematics with
Acrobat so that you can traverse the hierarchy by clicking on blocks.
Supposedly there is a script to do this in much more recent version of OrCAD
Capture, but it does not work in the free versions and I'm not buying
I own and have used PADS for DOS, but PowerPCB is better (I prefer it
over Cadance Allegro). I have the Specctra autorouter and the PADS Blaze
autorouter (PADS gave Blaze to customers on maintenance for free when it was
first developed). I used the Blaze autorouter for the Relay Trainer: it
takes Blaze less than a minute on my old IBM T41 laptop to route the entire
design. All the real work is in the placement, footprint creation and
One huge annoyance with PowerPCB is that it uses a parallel port dongle
for licensing. I'm stuck needing a machine with a real parallel port for
this. My IBM T41 is dying (it has the cracked
video chip solder ball problem), so I'm soon going to have to buy
another one to keep a working CAD station. Until it dies completely I've
found I can make progress by bending the entire laptop slightly.
For the first build, I had PCBs made, but purchased and assembled the
components into the board myself. I bought 10 boards, but assembled only
one of them. For high-end (high speed, many-layer) designs, I've always
used Sierra Proto Express (I
always thought it was cool that I could send them an 8-layer board design by
9 PM on the east coast, and have the fabricated boards back by the next
morning). For this low-tech two-layer design I only care about cost, so I
was willing to try other places and wait a week for the fab time. I ended
up using Advanced Circuits- they are
popular and a bit lower cost than Sierra Proto Express.
The raw boards from Advanced Circuits were quite nice:
Unfortunately I made a horrible mistake in the schematic symbol for the
relays: I had reversed the pin numbers between the normally open and
normally closed pins! I remember reviewing the symbol, thinking it was
wrong, and "correcting" it. What a massive screw-up: I'm usually pretty
good with this kind of detail, but this time my luck definitely ran out.
So then I had to decide, make another run of boards or fix each relay by
hand with cuts and jumpers to each relay? Well I wanted to debug everything
before spending more money, so I did the latter. This is what it looks
There were a few other minor mistakes, so even if the symbol was not
messed up the board would not have been perfect. Still, a few jumpers would
have been fine with me but the symbol mistake made it impossible. Even with
all these cuts and jumpers the board did finally work.
Notice that the "tactile switch" caps have printed lettering on them. I
experimented with screen-printing this lettering onto the caps and was
planning on doing this in the final version. Here is the screen I made for
this, from a Speedball kit from
the local art store.
Even so this screen printing is a lot of work, so I looked for
alternative solutions. One idea was to get die-cut lexan stickers for the
buttons, but for sure there would have been an NRE charge and there is still
work to put the stickers on the buttons. As it turned out these large
button caps were not available for the second build and the smaller caps
reveal enough of the PCB screen printing so that no lettering is needed.
For the second build I wanted to try to get the boards assembled by a
contract manufacturer. At first I was discouraged because most places that
are willing to do small runs are really set up only for surface mount
technology. They will do through-hole parts, but they don't have any
automation for it so they charge a lot for manual insertions.
I was seriously thinking of changing to all surface mount, though I
thought through hole would be a better option for kits. Surface mount is
great for most parts, but not relays, cheap LEDs, switches or connectors.
Surface mount relays do exist, but they are quite a bit more expensive than
the through-hole versions. Of course it's possible to have a mixed surface
mount and through-hole board, but this also costs extra since it means
having both reflow and wave-soldering steps.
I finally chanced upon MyRO PCB.
They have a sales office in Canada, but their factory is in China. They
have such reasonable prices for through-hole assembly that I gave up on the
idea of switching anything to surface mount. I don't know if they have
through-hole insertion machines, or if the low price is entirely due to the
labor costs; perhaps it's both. Anyway, I gave them a try.
MyRO will purchase parts for you if you give them a BOM (Bill of
Materials), for a fee. They can purchase from the big distributors like Mouser and Digikey, and want you to use these
distributors' part numbers. They do not deal with some smaller companies
such as Jameco, or directly with
component manufacturers- well at least they would not buy relays from a
Chinese relay manufacturer.
They will also accept parts shipped to them. I ended up having them buy
everything except for the relays, which I bought direct from Kest. This did
not work out as well as I had hoped because shipping to China is expensive.
It's well worth MyRO's fee to have them buy the parts for you.
Anyway, I gave them the design, the BOM and money, and three weeks later
10 assembled boards arrived at my home.
Here is a list of the changes to the design between the first and second
Add series resistors on serial port (to support both 3.3v or 5v)
Split ground between relays and semiconductors
Ground shell of DB-9 (also shell of pot)
"Pin 1" silkscreen missing from PIC headers
LED D23 numbers are confusing: we should have bit numbers. Moved the D
numbers above the LEDs
Lots of missing outlines on silkscreen: LEDs, some of the chips.
Changed options for generating silkscreen and assembly drawing in PADS.
Eliminate input relays to reduce cost.
Use pc0_l directly as first PC incremented bit.
Switch to 20 pin 24FV32KA301 to lower cost.
Switch to ULN2803A for single-ended pins to lower cost. Had to invert
signals going into condition code logic because now n signal is
Add LED for clock
Add pot for frequency control
Pin 5 / 6 swapped on all relays!
Ballast resistors too close to LEDs- now holes are .15 inch away instead of
1 uF caps have 2 mm pin spacing, but we have 2.5 mm..
Switch to 100 ohms, 33 uF for relay flip-flops master side.
Need 4.7K pull up on MCLR of pic24fv.. also why doesn't allow me
to turn off MCLR function? (refuses to clear the bit- maybe can't
LED D14 / D15 reversed (write data), also D16/D17, D18/D19 and
Add FTDI logic level serial header
in8 of rotator should be connected to carry flag, not left open.
Put wra where halt label is. wra & wrb now means halt.
Put imm where clk label is.
Pins 2 and 4 are swapped on the DB9.. UGH..
RB5 is serial rx on the pic16, not ra5... put MR to 4017 on RB4 and connect serial rx to
Too much noise on reset line of '595s.. tie it high on each chip
c_in and c_in_l reversed in carry_invclr c_in_l should go on the 12v
This time, the boards had no wiring mistakes but there were still
For the first build I bought 12V DPDT DIP "Kest"-branded relays from All Electronics. They worked
fine, so I figured I'd be conservative and use the same part for the second
build. MyRO will not buy from All Electronics, so I figured I'd save money
by buying 830 relays directly from Kest, who turn out to be in New Jersey.
These relays seem to be different from the ones from All Electronics, even
though they have the same part number.
First of all the case is orange instead of black, but I sure wish that
was the only difference. The orange relays seem to have weaker springs, so
that even though the coil resistance is the same as the black ones, the
needed holding current is much less. It means that the relay-based
flip-flops will turn on, but will not turn off again. I had to increase the
value of the holding resistors for sure.
But just increasing the holding resistors didn't work. Some of the
relays wouldn't stay on and need smaller holding resistors. There is a wide
enough variance in the relay spring strength that I ended having to tune
each relay! So much for a turn-key build process. To tune the holding
resistors I replace the original 1.8K holding resistors with 4.7K, and then
solder either a 10K or a 6.8K resistor in parallel on the back of the board
for the ones which need more current (I could just replace the resistors,
but each time you de-solder a resistor it damages the board to some degree,
so it's better to add them).
(The two jumpers shown are for fixing traces I broke during debugging
and are not needed on "fresh" boards).
Here is a table of measurements for five of these orange Kest KS2E-M-DC
Min is the minimum value of the hold resistor below which the relay is
Max is the maximum value of the hold resistor above which the relay won't
The largest min is 3.26K and the smallest max is 3.56K so the mean is
3.41K and the window is only .3 K!
Here is a table of a sampling of five new TE Connectivity / Axicom MT2
C93418 relays I'm considering using instead for the next build:
The largest min is 1.04K and the smallest max is 2.38K, so the mean is
1.71K and the window is 1.34K, which is much more reasonable. These relays
are closer to the black Kest KS2E-M-DC12s, where I got the original 1.8K
value for the hold resistor.
You could argue that I'm not using the relays in their intended way by
using the holding resistors. Still, I'm surprised at the huge variance.
Unfortunately the problems do not end there: about 2% of the relays are just
plain broken. The coil is OK, and I can hear them click, but the contacts
do not close.
Incidentally here is a simple jig to test my relay flip flops:
This is a single bit flip-flop counter with the D input driven by an
SN754410 half H-bridge driver. This chip has to be in the circuit because
its low level output voltage is about 1V, not ground like the relay
flip-flop outputs. I also use this jig to determine the capacitor value the
input resistor value and the maximum frequency.
For the next build, I intend to use a different brand of relay, perhaps
the one above. I've found that there are two commonly specified drop-out
voltages: .6 V and 1.2 V. I suspect that the 1.2 V ones will work better.
I've also spent more time in Mouser's on-line catalogue and found some lower
cost relays. Searching for parts on Mouser is definitely a skill all on its
own since they have so many parts that it is easy to miss ones, and the
lowest cost options are not always prominently displayed.
I found that the load and clock lines of the 74HC595 chains were picking
up noise on the second build. I did not have this issue on the first build,
but the routing is different and the brand of 74HC595 is different. Anyway,
the fix was to add capacitors to these signals- you can see them on the
back of the board in the photo above.